7/14/2023 0 Comments Flat tub overflow gasket![]() ![]() Manipulate the gasket with your free hand, using tools if you have to, until it is positioned properly (you may have to jam it in a bit). My technique for this is to install a plate screw into the horn so you have something to grab to apply pressure to the new gasket as you slide it into place (the screw will also prevent the new gasket from falling behind the tub if you drop it). Get a helper too, unless you have 3 arms and hands. Get a piece of slim stiff wire about 8" long and bent in a "j" shape on one end and keep it handy. There is always a bit of "give" on the overflow pipe, which helps, but try not to move it too much or you risk compromising the connection to the waste tee below (if it is the type with a slip-joint connection, many are glued plastic). Remove the overflow plate and take a look, you should be able to pull out the old gasket with a combination of long tools and needle-nose pliers (I use a hemostat- see picture). They can be replaced without ripping out the tub. I prefer the foam rubber because you can get a decent squish on them and they will conform to irregularities on the back side of cast iron tubs (sometimes the porcelain glaze is slopped a bit back there, sometimes the casting is rough).ĭo not attempt to smear caulk around it, it won't work. I have seen them made of both solid rubber and foam rubber. ![]() The flat side mates with the overflow horn (the piece directly behind the hole) and the angled side mates with the backside of the tub, fat part down to match the slope of the tub wall. For common bathtubs the correct overflow gasket should be wedge shaped with a flat side and an angled side. ![]()
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